There have all the time been two Marthas: Martha the Highly effective and Martha the Tasteful. A minimum of, that’s in accordance with New York Instances critic (and notable celeb restaurant panner) Pete Wells, who popped over to Vegas to write down a review of Martha Stewart’s Bedford restaurant on the Las Vegas Strip.
He explains that to eat on the Bedford is to understand the previous incarnation of Martha has put her identify on a restaurant whose particulars would by no means meet the approval of the latter. Wells’ take: for a character who has constructed her repute on particulars, even the smallest parts of tastelessness inside her restaurant benefit scrutiny.
Here’s what Wells needed to say about a few of the restaurant’s hottest dishes:
Should you order a baked potato, one might be introduced by a server, raised excessive within the air and introduced down with a powerful thud on the floor of a tableside potato cart. I by some means doubt that Ms. Stewart slaps baked potatoes on a cart when she has mates over for dinner. It appears even much less probably {that a} potato at her desk could be lukewarm, just like the $15.95 one I used to be served on the Bedford.
The roast rooster, which prices $89.95, was on its method towards room temperature, too. Steak tartare, $27.95, was distractingly candy, as if it had been made with honey mustard as a substitute of Dijon. The cream appeared to have been neglected of oysters Rockefeller, $29.95.
He did be aware one vivid spot on the menu:
The bread basket was a showcase of baking abilities, from the cherry focaccia to the snowshoe-shaped crackers with sage leaves and thinly shaved greens embedded within the crust. It’s $11.95, and value it.
Furthermore, Wells took difficulty with a few of the ambient parts of the restaurant. In a setting hyped to reflect the expertise of eating at Stewart’s precise house, he doubts that Stewart would air on a soccer recreation throughout dinner, like the massive wide-screen TVs situated behind the bar had been. He additionally wonders if the clear disposable water cup he was supplied might have been off-brand for the life-style icon.
Finally, he goals to find out the precise nature of her involvement within the venture, and lands on this:
The Bedford is just not Ms. Stewart’s “first restaurant,” as many information experiences have mentioned. It isn’t, actually, “hers” in any respect. She is neither an proprietor nor the chef. It’s nearly actually, nevertheless, the primary Martha Stewart-themed restaurant.
The Bedford opened on August 13 on the Paris Las Vegas and has obtained usually positive reception. The French-ish restaurant is open for dinner from 5 to 10:30 p.m. every day with reservations accessible on-line, however not required.
Discussion about this post